Short answer: a replica Explorer II 1655 on a 16559 Oyster bracelet is worth it when the fixed 24-hour bezel, the matte black dial, the orange 24-hour hand, and the 39 mm case profile all hold up. It is a poor buy when a seller leads with a bracelet number instead of the watch reference. The build we would pick first is a 39 mm 1655-style piece with a domed plexi crystal, drilled lugs, and a serviceable automatic movement, because those four details carry nearly all of the design.

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The 16559 number explained before you spend

The Explorer II family is anchored by the 1655, the 1971 model with a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange arrow hand. The number 16559 shows up in listings as a bracelet or catalog code tied to that line, not as the watch reference itself. Sellers who blend the two often have a loose grip on what they are selling, so ask for photos of the caseback, the reference stamped between the lugs, and the bracelet end links before any payment.

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Criterion 1: case profile and bezel engraving

The 1655 case measures 39 mm across and sits slimmer than current Explorer II models. A replica that runs 41 or 42 mm misses the point, since vintage proportions are what make the watch wear well on a smaller wrist. Inspect the bezel as well. The 24-hour numerals should be engraved, filled, evenly spaced, and finished in matte steel. Printed or shallow bezel numbers are the fastest tell on the wrist.

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• Pro: a true 39 mm case with drilled lugs accepts almost any 20 mm strap, which widens your options.
• Con: many replicas pad the case thickness, so the watch sits tall under a shirt cuff.

Criterion 2: dial, hands, and crystal

Vintage 1655 dials have a matte finish, small lume plots, and a printed outer track that varies by era. The 24-hour hand should be a bright orange arrow with a short stem, not a long needle. Check the crystal too. The original runs a domed plexi, which gives the dial a soft distortion near the edges. A flat sapphire crystal changes the character of the watch even when the rest of the build is accurate.

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• Pro: a plexi crystal plus a matte dial reads closer to a real vintage piece in daylight.
• Con: plexi scratches and needs polishing, so plan on replacing it at some point.

Criterion 3: bracelet and end links

The 16559 code points to a three-link Oyster-style bracelet. On a replica, the bracelet is where corners get cut: hollow center links that rattle, end links that do not sit flush, and clasps with soft stamping. Ask for a side photo of the lug and end link junction. A visible gap there ruins the silhouette from across a table, no matter how good the dial looks.

• Pro: a solid end link fit makes a mid-tier build look far more expensive than it is.
• Con: a loose bracelet is hard to fix, since aftermarket end links rarely match the case curve.

Criterion 4: movement and how the 24-hour hand behaves

Ask which movement sits inside: ETA 2836, Miyota, Seagull, or a clone, and whether it can be serviced locally. One detail trips up most buyers. On the original 1655 the 24-hour hand is not independently adjustable. You rotate the bezel to read a second time zone. Later Explorer II models let the hand set on its own. If a seller claims independent GMT setting on a 1655-style watch, that is a generation mismatch, not a bonus feature.

• Pro: a common movement means any watchmaker can regulate or rebuild it.
• Con: an unknown or sealed movement turns a small fault into a full replacement.

Option A: 39 mm plexi build (top pick)

This is the version worth owning if you want the watch people recognize. It pairs a 39 mm case, engraved steel bezel, matte dial, orange arrow hand, domed plexi, and an Oyster bracelet with tight end links.

• Pro: correct proportions, correct crystal profile, correct hand shape.
• Pro: drilled lugs make strap changes simple.
• Con: costs more than the quartz tier and needs a replacement crystal every few years.

Use case: everyday wear for someone who wants a vintage tool-watch look and does not mind a little upkeep.

Option B: sapphire-crystal modern build

Same case and bezel shape, but with a flat sapphire crystal and often a thicker caseback.

• Pro: scratch resistance and better water resistance claims.
• Con: the flat crystal flattens the dial and moves the look away from the original.

Use case: a daily beater for someone who prioritizes durability over period correctness.

Option C: quartz budget build

The cheapest path, usually with a printed bezel and a lighter bracelet.

• Pro: low outlay, no winding, easy to replace.
• Con: ticking seconds hand, shallow bezel markings, hollow links, and no service path.

Use case: a trial purchase to confirm you even like the 1655 look before spending on a better build.

When to walk away

Skip the deal if the case measures over 40 mm, the bezel numerals are printed, the bracelet has gaps at the lugs, the listing calls 16559 the watch reference, or the seller promises it is identical to a genuine Rolex. No replica is genuine, and no honest seller describes it that way. Also note that import and sale rules for replica watches vary by state and country, so keep the purchase for personal wear and never represent it as the real thing.

Verdict

A fake Explorer II 16559 is worth it at the plexi tier with a 39 mm case, engraved bezel, orange 24-hour hand, and a tight Oyster bracelet. Below that, you are buying a shape rather than a watch. Above it, you are paying for details most people cannot see from arm's length. Buy the mid tier, verify the movement, and check the lug fit before money changes hands.