Pick
Buy a hand-wound, steel, 36 mm triple-calendar watch with a working moonphase. Skip anything with a battery. The original Rolex 6062 is a 1950s watch. Every replica of it is a modern copy, and many copies get the calendar layout wrong.
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What the original is
- Reference 6062. Made from about 1950 to 1954. Oyster case, screw-down crown, screw-down back.
- 36 mm case. Triple calendar: day, date, month, plus a moonphase at 6 o'clock.
- Calibre 655, hand wound.
- The Bao Dai piece: yellow gold, black dial, diamond hour markers. Phillips sold it in Geneva in May 2017 for CHF 5,066,000. That was a record for a Rolex at auction.
- Total 6062 output is not published by Rolex. Auction houses list the Bao Dai as one of a small group of gold 6062s with that dial.
Fake vs original: points to check
Laser coronet
The original has none. Rolex added the etched coronet at 6 o'clock in 2002. A 1950s 6062 that shows one is wrong.
Caseback and numbers
Original: reference 6062 and a serial number stamped between the lugs, plus hallmarks inside the back on gold examples. Replicas engrave shallow, and the fonts do not match period stamps.
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Pushers and date change
Original: two pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock, correctors at 8 and 10. The date advances by pusher, not by crown. A copy with a crown-set date holds a different mechanism inside.
How to Buy a Rolex 6062 'Bao Dai' Replica: Specs, Checks, Pitfalls
Moonphase disc
Original disc: deep blue with gold stars and two moons. Copies print flat, and the disc jumps at the wrong hour.
Dial print
Original: applied markers, sharp serif print, OYSTER PERPETUAL above the calendar apertures. Copies use flat paint and thick lettering.
Options
- Steel triple calendar, hand wound, 36 mm, leather strap. Closest case shape. Expect a modified Chinese or Seagull-based movement.
- Gold-plated version. Plating under 5 microns wears through at the lugs.
- Avoid: quartz, Bao Dai limited edition labels, and any seller who claims a genuine calibre 655.
No replica maker produces a copy of calibre 655. The movement in any 6062 copy is a substitute. Resale value is near zero. Buy it as a costume piece, not as an asset.