What does a Rolex Explorer II 1655 replica cost?

A Rolex Explorer II 1655 replica runs about $95 to $600, and the price tracks two things: the movement inside and the accuracy of the dial and 24-hour hand. Budget builds sit under $150, mid-tier pieces land between $200 and $350, and the closest copies with a Swiss ETA base and a correct orange arrow hand start near $400.

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The reference 1655 is the first Explorer II, sold from 1971 to 1985. Collectors call it the "Freccione" for the arrow-shaped 24-hour hand. Fewer replica makers build it than the Submariner, so the market is thinner and prices swing more.

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Why the 1655 is harder to copy than a Submariner

The 1655 has details that a generic GMT case cannot fake. Each one pushes the price up.

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The orange 24-hour hand

Original hands use an orange that fades to a dull rust over decades. Cheap replicas use flat orange paint with a fat arrowhead. Good ones match the slim arrow and the taper at the tip.

Replica Rolex Explorer 2 1655 Review

The matte dial and print

Genuine 1655 dials have a matte black surface with tall, thin font and the words "Explorer II" sitting above the depth rating. Replicas with glossy dials or heavy pad printing look wrong from a foot away.

The fixed steel bezel

Unlike later Explorer IIs, the 1655 bezel does not rotate. It is a steel ring with an engraved 24-hour scale. Shallow engraving and soft numerals are the first things a trained eye spots on a cheap copy.

The case and crystal

The 1655 case measures 39mm across and uses drilled lugs on most examples. Original crystals are plexi, not sapphire. A replica with a 40mm case and a domed sapphire sits wrong on the wrist and reads as fake.

What drives the price of a 1655 replica

  • Movement. A basic Asia 2836 with a bolt-on GMT module sits at the bottom. An ETA 2836-2 or a decorated high-beat clone costs more and keeps better time. No clone of the original Rolex 1570 exists.
  • Case steel. 316L stainless is the standard. 904L costs more, takes a brighter polish, and matches the original alloy.
  • Dial work. Pad printing is the cheap route. Better dials use a matte finish, correct font weight, and lume plots sized like the original.
  • Bezel engraving. Laser engraving is fast and shallow. Deeper, hand-finished engraving adds cost and looks closer to the real thing.
  • Crystal. Plexi costs less and looks right. Sapphire adds money but is wrong for this reference.
  • Bracelet. A folded-link Oyster (7836 style) is period correct. Solid-link versions cost more but do not match the era.
  • Gaskets and seals. A listed water rating means little without tested gaskets and a screwed caseback.

Price tiers at a glance

Under $150

Asia 2836 or DG3804 movement, 316L case, printed dial, thin bezel engraving. It fills a costume role. Do not expect the GMT hand to track the hour hand.

$200 to $350

Better case shape, correct 39mm size, matte dial, lume that glows, and a movement that holds within a few seconds a day. This band covers most buyers.

$400 and up

Swiss ETA base, a 904L case option, correct plexi, period-correct bracelet, and QC photos before shipping. You pay for detail, not for a different watch.

Pitfalls that cost you money

  • "Swiss made" on a $120 listing. At that price the movement is Asian. The label is a sales line.
  • Stolen photos. Sellers lift images from auction houses and genuine listings. Ask for a dated photo of the actual watch.
  • Wrong case size. Many sellers list 40mm and still call it a 1655. Confirm the measurement before you buy.
  • Wrong hand color. Bright orange with a thick arrow is a giveaway. Ask for a close-up of the hand.
  • No QC photos. A real seller sends pictures of your unit before it ships.
  • Payment with no recourse. Wire transfers and gift cards leave you with nothing if the watch never arrives.
  • Customs risk. Counterfeit goods can be seized at the border. That money is gone with no refund.

Checklist before you pay

  1. Confirm the case measures 39mm and the crystal is plexi.
  2. Ask which movement is inside, then ask for a photo of it.
  3. Request QC images of the dial, bezel, and caseback.
  4. Compare the font and the arrow tip against photos of a genuine 1655.
  5. Pay with a method that allows a dispute.

Frequently asked questions

Is $150 enough for a decent 1655 replica?

It buys a watch that looks right at a distance. The movement will be Asian, the bezel engraving shallow, and the GMT hand may not set the way the original does.

Will a replica 1655 take genuine Rolex parts?

Rare. Threads, gasket sizes, and hand post diameters differ. Some bracelets and crystals fit with work. Movements do not swap.

What movement should a 1655 replica have?

An ETA 2836-2 with a GMT module is the common mid and high-tier choice. Asia 2836 and DG3804 are the budget options.

Are there legal risks?

Yes. Selling or importing counterfeit goods carries trademark liability in the United States, and customs can seize a shipment. Personal-use rules vary by state and country, so check your local law.

Bottom line

Expect to pay $200 to $350 for a 1655 replica that gets the case size, dial, and hand shape right. Go above $400 only if you want an ETA base and better finishing. Below $150, you are buying a look, not a watch.